Canon RF 75-300mm
f/4-5.6 Full-Frame, Unstabilized (2025 ~ today)
Sample Images Intro New Good Bad Missing
R1 R3 R5 II R5 R5C R6 III R6 II R6 R R8 RP R7 R10 R50 R50V R100
Canon: Bodies Compared RF Lenses EF Lenses Flash
Canon RF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 (58mm filters, 17.9 oz./507g, 4.9'/1.5m close focus, 0.25× macro ratio, $239). bigger. I got mine at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon, at B&H, or get it used if you know How to Win at eBay, or get it used at KEH.
This 100% all-content, junk-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to my personally approved sources I've used myself for way over 100 combined years when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Canon does not seal its boxes in any way, so never buy at retail or any other source not on my personally approved list since you'll have no way of knowing if you're missing accessories, getting a defective, damaged, returned, non-USA, store demo or used lens — and all of my personally approved sources allow for 100% cash-back returns for at least 30 days if you don't love your new lens. I've used many of these sources since the 1970s because I can try it in my own hands and return it if I don't love it, and because they ship from secure remote warehouses where no one gets to touch your new lens before you do. Buy only from the approved sources I've used myself for decades for the best prices, service, return policies and selection.
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Sample Images top
Introduction New Good Bad Missing
These are just snapshots; my real work is in my Gallery.
These are all shot hand-held as Large Normal (
What's not to love about this lens?
Dawn Patrol, Pacific Beach Pier, San Diego, California, 9:50 AM, Saturday, 04 October 2025. Slight crop from Canon EOS R1, RF 70-300mm at 300mm wide-open at f/5.6 at 1/2,000 at Auto ISO 200 (LV 15.0), Radiant Photo software to add light and Skylum Luminar Neo software to add deliberate vignetting. bigger or camera-original 6.5 MB © 24 MP JPG file.
Dawn Patrol, Pacific Beach Pier, San Diego, California, 10:08 AM, Saturday, 04 October 2025. Slight crop from Canon EOS R1, RF 70-300mm at 200mm at f/5.6 at 1/2,000 at Auto ISO 200 (LV 15.0), Radiant Photo software to add light and Skylum Luminar Neo software to add deliberate vignetting. bigger or camera-original 8.1 MB © 24 MP JPG file.
Red Jet Ski, Enchanted Cove, Fiesta Island, Mission Bay, San Diego, California, 12:40 PM, Saturday, 04 October 2025. Crop from Canon EOS R1, RF 70-300mm at 300mm at f/5.6 at 1/2,000 at Auto ISO 500 (LV 13.7), Radiant Photo software. bigger or camera-original 5.5 MB © 24 MP JPG file.
I'm impressed! This bottom-dollar lens is actually very sharp, and while it has a slow 1980s-era mechanical focus motor, on my Canon EOS R1 gives amazing results shooting sports and action when the motion is relatively constant and linear.
Vivid Orange and Red Aspens at Crowley Lake in the Eastern Sierra, 4:29 PM, Tuesday, 21 October 2025. Canon EOS R1, RF 75-300mm at 200mm at f/8 at 1/250 at Auto ISO 100, -0.7 stops exposure compensation (LV 14.0), Radiant Photo and Skylum Luminar Neo software to fire it up. bigger.
Snow Atop the Sawtooth Range with Cattle in the Foreground as Seen from Bridgeport, California, 8:21 A.M., Wednesday, 22 October 2025. Canon EOS R1, Hoya 67mm HRT Circular Polarizer held over the front of my RF 75-300mm at 140mm at f/8 at 1/125 at Auto ISO 100 (LV 13.0), Radiant Photo software. More tech details. bigger or fit-to-screen.
Snow Atop the Sawtooth Range with Colorful Aspens in the Foreground, Bridgeport, California, 10:05 A.M, Wednesday, 22 October 2025. Canon EOS R1, Hoya 67mm HRT Circular Polarizer held over the front of my RF 75-300mm at 255mm at f/8 at 1/250 at Auto ISO 100 (LV 14.0), Radiant Photo software. More tech details. bigger or fit-to-screen.
Approaching Storm Clouds over the Sawtooth Range, Bridgeport, California, 10:05 A.M., Wednesday, 22 October 2025. Canon EOS R1, RF 75-300mm at 75mm at f/8 at 1/1,000 at Auto ISO 100, +0.3 stops exposure compensation (LV 16.0), Radiant Photo and Skylum Luminar Neo software. More tech details. bigger or fit-to-screen.
Sunrise over the White Mountains as Seen from Conway Summit, Lee Vining, California, 7:16 A.M., Thursday, 23 October 2025. Cropped somewhat from Canon EOS R1, RF 75-300mm at 300mm at f/8 at 1/500 at Auto ISO 100, -1.0 stop exposure compensation (LV 15.0), Radiant Photo software. More tech details. bigger or fit-to-screen.
Tufa in Predawn Glow, Mono Lake, Lee Vining, California, 6:48 A.M., Friday, 24 October 2025. Canon EOS R1, RF 75-300mm at 75mm wide-open at f/4 hand-held at a quarter-of-a-second at Auto ISO 800 (LV 3.0), Radiant Photo software. More tech details. bigger or fit-to-screen.
Hand-held for a quarter-of-a-second at 75mm? Easy with my stabilized EOS R1! I left my Oben CT-2491 Carbon-Fibre Tripod and Oben GH3W-15 Geared Head in the car where they belong.
Introduction top
Introduction New Good Bad Missing
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This bottom-dollar lens is small, light and actually very sharp. It's easy to carry everywhere so it's actually with me all the time.
The RF 75-300mm has a whiny, slow 1980s-era mechanical focus motor. On my Canon EOS R1 gives amazing results shooting sports and action when the motion is relatively constant and linear. I got thousands of sharp, colorful images in just a few hours of shooting one morning as you see above. I was astonished; the R1 tracks magnificently and I can't recall any out-of focus images out of thousands!
No, it's not as sharp as my EF 100-400mm L IS II USM with its fluorite element, but the RF 75-300mm is small enough to fit in my pocket so I actually have it with me when I need it and not back in my car with my EF 100-400mm L IS II USM.
This lens works great on an internally stabilized camera, but has no image stabilization by itself. With an unstabilized camera you'll need a tripod or very fast shutter speeds to get sharp photos; I only suggest this lens for use with stabilized cameras.
This is a bottom-dollar lens created so that Canon can package it with very low-priced kits to entice the innocent. It's the old EF 75-300mm f/4~5.6 III repackaged with an RF mount so it can be used on Canon's mirrorless cameras.
This cheapie lens is faster than every non-f/2.8 Canon RF telephoto zoom.
I got mine at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon, at B&H, or get it used if you know How to Win at eBay, or get it used at KEH.
New intro top
Canon's cheapest telephoto.
Good intro top
Ultralight.
Small.
Relatively fast f/4 ~ f/5.6; faster than every other Canon RF telephoto zoom other than the f/2.8 models.
Handy zoom range.
Hallelujah, it has an AF/MF switch!
100% U.S.A.-based high-quality technical support at (800) OK-CANON.
Bad intro top
No Stabilization. Works great with in-camera stabilization.
No instant manual-focus override, you always have to move a switch each and every time you want to go between auto and manual focus.
Toylike autofocus motor.
Missing intro top
No Stabilization. Works great with in-camera stabilization.
No instant manual-focus override.
Mounting index dot not raised so it can't be found by feel in the dark.
No case included.
No hood included.
Will not work with any teleconverters.
No focus or depth-of-field scales.
No infra-red focus indices.
No focus lock buttons.
Canon RF 75-300mm f/4-5.6. bigger.
Specifications top
Introduction New Good Bad Missing
I got mine at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon, at B&H, or get it used if you know How to Win at eBay, or get it used at KEH.
Name specifications top
Canon calls this the RF75-300mm F4-5.6:
RF: Works only on Canon's EOS-R Mirrorless cameras.
Optics specifications top
Internal Optical Construction.
13 elements in 9 groups.
Pumper zoom that gets longer as zoomed to 300mm.
Front-group focus: the front of the lens rotates and moves in and out as it focuses.
Super Spectra multicoating.
Diaphragm specifications top
7 rounded blades.
Electronically actuated.
Stops down to f/32 - f/45.
Filters specifications top
Plastic 58mm filter thread.
Focal Length specifications top
75 ~ 300mm.
When used on Canon's APS-C cameras, it sees the same angle of view as a 120 ~ 485mm lens sees when used on a full-frame or 35mm camera.
See also Crop Factor.
Angles of View, Full-Frame specifications top
32º 11' ～ 8º 15' diagonal.
27º ～ 6º 50' horizontal.
18º 11' ～ 4º 35' vertical.
Autofocus specifications top
DC electric motor, probably pretty whiny.
Focus Scale specifications top
No.
Not on lens, but may be displayed in-camera.
Infinity Focus Stop specifications top
No.
You have to focus somehow to get precise focus at infinity, just like at every other distance.
Depth of Field Scale specifications top
No.
Not on lens, but may be displayed in-camera.
Infrared Focus Index specifications top
No.
Close Focus (distance from subject to image plane) specifications top
4.9 feet (1.5 meters).
Maximum Reproduction Ratio specifications top
1:4.0 (0.25×) at 300mm.
1:16.7 (0.06×) at 75mm.
Reproduction Ratio Scale specifications top
No.
Not on lens, but may be displayed in-camera.
Image Stabilizer specifications top
NONE.
Caps specifications top
Canon E-58 II 58mm front cap, included.
RF Rear Cap (p/n 2962C001), included.
Hood specifications top
Optional ET-60 hood, which comes either as the Canon ET-60 Hood or the Vello ET-60 Hood.
Case specifications top
LP1019 carry sack, not included.
Size specifications top
2.80" ø maximum diameter × 5.75" extension from flange.
71.2 mm ø maximum diameter × 146.1 mm extension from flange.
Weight specifications top
17.9 oz. (507 g).
Announced specifications top
2:30 PM, Wednesday, 09 July 2025, NYC time..
Promised for specifications top
July, 2025.
Included specifications top
Lens.
E-58 II 58mm front cap.
RF Rear Cap (p/n 2962C001).
Model Numbers specifications top
Model number: RF75-300mm F4-5.6.
Product code: 7155C002 (7155C001 in Japan).
JAN code: 4549292-247756.
Price, U. S. A. specifications top
08 October 2025
$239 at Adorama, at Amazon and at B&H.
About $155 used if you know How to Win at eBay.
04 October 2025
$219 at Adorama, at Amazon and at B&H.
About $155 used if you know How to Win at eBay.
July 2025
$219 at Adorama, at Amazon and at B&H.
35,200 yen in Japan, tax included ($241 USD at a 146.1 yen/USD exchange rate on 10 July 2025).
Canon RF 75-300mm f/4-5.6. bigger.
Accessories top
Introduction New Good Bad Missing
I got mine at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon, at B&H, or get it used if you know How to Win at eBay, or get it used at KEH.
Optional ET-60 hood, which comes either as the Canon ET-60 Hood or the Vello ET-60 Hood.
Optional LP1019 carry sack.
Canon E-58 II 58mm front cap (included).
RF Rear Cap (p/n 2962C001, included).
Performance top
Introduction New Good Bad Missing
Overall Autofocus Manual Focus Breathing
Bokeh Distortion Ergonomics Falloff Filters
Flare & Ghosts Lens Corrections Macro
Maximum & Minimum Apertures Mechanics
Sharpness Spherochromatism Stabilization
Sunstars Teleconverters Weather Sealing
I got mine at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon, at B&H, or get it used if you know How to Win at eBay, or get it used at KEH.
Overall performance top
This 75-300mm is super light and compact and nearly free — and it's a full stop faster than the RF 100-400mm IS USM and small enough to fit in my jacket pocket.
It's 85% as sharp as anything else that sells for ten rimes as much, which means it's just fine for what I need. As you've seen, it is quite capable of making great pictures
Autofocus performance top
Autofocus is relatively slow. It uses 1980's technology: a small, toylike motor that whines as it focuses.
The front of the lens rotates and moves in and out as it focuses.
Manual Focus performance top
Manual focus is by moving a mechanical switch which disconnects the focus motor so you can turn the front focus ring.
The front of the lens rotates and moves in and out as you turn the focus ring.
Focus Breathing performance top
Focus breathing is the image changing size (growing and shrinking slightly) as focused in and out. It's important to cinematographers that the image not breathe (change size) as focus gets pulled back and forth between different actors as they speak. The image is said to breathe because it expands and contracts as the focus follows the dialog back and forth.
The image gets bigger as focused more closely.
Bokeh performance top
Bokeh, the feel, character or quality of out-of-focus areas as opposed to how far out of focus they are, is excellent.
Here are photos from headshot distance wide-open. I'm focused on the DAVIS logo. Click any for the © camera-original file:
Made-in-U. S. A. Davis 6357 Vantage Vue Wireless Sensor Suite (use with WeatherLink console), Wednesday, 24 September 2025. Canon EOS R1 at 1/2,000, 1/1,000and 1/500 at Auto ISO 100, +0.7 stops exposure compensation (LV 15.0, 14.6 and 14.0).
Click any for the camera-original © files.
As always, if you want to throw the background as far out of focus as possible, shoot at 300mm at f/5.6 and get as close as possible.
Distortion performance top
The RF 75-300mm has no visible distortion as shot with Distortion Correction ON.
If you turn it off, then it has no visible distortion from 75mm to 100mm, and then stronger and stronger pincushion distortion as you zoom to 300mm, where it has moderately strong pincushion distortion.
If you shoot raw data rather than JPG images, whatever software you use to create visible images from raw data may or may not correct the distortion as is done in-camera as JPGs. You're on your own there; I don't bother with raw data.
For more critical scientific use, use these corrections in Photoshop's lens correction filter to JPG images.
These aren't facts or specifications, they are the results of my research that requires hours of photography and calculations on the resulting data.
On Full-Frame and 35mm at 30' (10m) |
Correction factor to use with images made with correction ON in EOS R1 |
Correction factor with uncorrected images |
75mm |
+0.50 | +0.60 |
100mm |
-0.20 | -0.90 |
135mm |
-0.30 | -2.00 |
200mm |
-0.60 | -3.00 |
300mm |
-0.80 | -3.50 |
© 2025 KenRockwell.com. All rights reserved.
Ergonomics performance top
|
|
|
|
At 75mm. bigger. |
At 75mm. bigger. |
At 300mm. bigger. |
At 300mm. bigger. |
It gets longer as zoomed longer.
The front focus ring and front section of the lens rotate as focused, and the front section extends as focused more closely.
There is NEVER any manual-focus override.
This is a 1980's style lens which requires moving a mechanical switch on the lens to disconnect the focus motor so it can be focused manually.
The mechanical zoom ring works great, except for manual focus its an easy lens to use.
Falloff performance top
Falloff on full frame is invisible.
I've greatly exaggerated the falloff by shooting a gray field and placing these on a gray background; it will not look this bad in actual photos of real things:
Falloff on full-frame at infinity, correction ON:
© 2025 KenRockwell.com. All rights reserved. |
If you save only raw data rather than create JPG images in-camera, whatever software you use to create visible images from that raw data later may or may not correct this as is done in-camera as JPGs. You're on your own there; I don't bother with raw data.
If you go out of your way to turn off the correction, or possibly in some raw software, this is what you get, which is also invisible except wide-open:
Falloff on full-frame at infinity, correction turned OFF:
© 2025 KenRockwell.com. All rights reserved. |
Filters, use with performance top
There's no need for thin filters. I can stack several standard 58mm filters with no vignetting at any setting on full-frame.
Go ahead and use your standard rotating polarizer and grad filters.
Flare & Ghosts performance top
Flare and ghosts are very well controlled.
See examples at Sunstars.
Lens Corrections performance top
Other cameras may vary as the years roll on, but my EOS R1, R3, R5 II, R5, R5C, R6 II, R6, R, R8, RP, R7, R10, R50 and R100 all have options to correct for falloff (Peripheral Illumination Correction), Distortion and a Digital Lens Optimizer which corrects for a suite of other aberrations.
You may turn any of these ON or OFF.
If you turn off the Digital Lens Optimizer, you are then offered à la carte ON/OFF options for Chromatic Aberration Correction and Diffraction Correction.
If you shoot raw data rather than JPG images, whatever software you use to create visible images from raw data may or may not correct these as is done in-camera as JPGs. You're on your own there; I don't bother with raw data.
Macro Performance performance top
It gets pretty close at 300mm, but does suffer from spherochromatism if you're silly enough to shoot wide-open.
As an old-school design, the close-focus distance is the same 5 feet (1.5m) regardless of zoom setting.
Wide-Open at f/5.6 at 300mm
Casio G-Shock Solar Atomic Watch at close-focus distance, 24 September 2025. Canon EOS R1, RF 75-300mm at 300mm at f/5.6 at 1/500 at Auto ISO 100, +1.0 stops exposure compensation (LV 14.0). bigger or camera-original © file.
1,200 × 900 pixel (5× magnification) crop from above. bigger or camera-original © file.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 3" (7.5cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same large magnification would be about 10 × 15" (25 × 38cm).
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same extreme magnification would be about 20 × 30" (50 × 75cm).
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 12" (30cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same insanely high magnification would be about 40 × 60" (1 × 1.5 meters).
At f/8 at 300mm
Just one stop down and the spherochromatism is gone:
Casio G-Shock Solar Atomic Watch at close-focus distance, 24 September 2025. Canon EOS R1, RF 75-300mm at 300mm at f/8 at 1/250 at Auto ISO 100, +1.0 stops exposure compensation (LV 14.0). bigger or camera-original © file.
1,200 × 900 pixel (5× magnification) crop from above. bigger or camera-original © file.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 3" (7.5cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same large magnification would be about 10 × 15" (25 × 38cm).
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same extreme magnification would be about 20 × 30" (50 × 75cm).
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 12" (30cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same insanely high magnification would be about 40 × 60" (1 × 1.5 meters).
Maximum & Minimum Apertures performance top
Maximum Aperture |
Minimum Aperture |
|
| 75mm | f/4 |
f/32 |
| 100mm | f/4.5 |
f/32 |
| 135mm | f/4.5 |
f/36 |
| 150mm | f/5 |
f/36 |
| 200mm | f/5 |
f/40 |
| 300mm | f/5.6 |
f/45 |
Mechanical Quality performance top
Canon RF 75-300mm f/4-5.6. bigger.
It's all plastic on the outside with a metal mount.
Exterior
Black plastic.
Front Bumper
None.
Filter Threads
Plastic.
Hood Bayonet Mount
Plastic.
Barrels
Plastic.
Focus Ring
Rubber-covered plastic.
Zoom Ring
Rubber-covered plastic.
AF/MF Slide Switch
Plastic.
Silver Trim Ring at Mount
Silver-painted plastic.
Mount
Dull chromed metal.
Dust Gasket at Mount
No.
Identity
Printed around front of focus ring in nearly invisible dark gray on black.
"Canon 75 - 300" printed on top of barrel.
Internals
Seem like almost all plastic.
Markings
Just paint; nothing's engraved.
Serial Number
Canon RF 75-300mm f/4-5.6. bigger.
Laser engraved in warm black on black on the bottom of the barrel.
Date Code
The serial number contains a date code.
My serial number starts with 154, which means it was made in June 2025.
Noises When Shaken
Moderate clattering.
Made in
Canon RF 75-300mm f/4-5.6. bigger.
Made in Malaysia.
Sharpness performance top
Lens sharpness has nothing to do with picture sharpness; every lens made in the past 100 years is more than sharp enough to make super-sharp pictures if you know what you're doing and work within each lens' constraints. The only limitation to picture sharpness is your skill as a photographer. It's the least talented who spend the most time worrying about lens sharpness and blame crummy pictures on their equipment rather than themselves. Skilled photographers make great images with whatever camera is in their hands; I've made some of my best images of all time with an irreparably broken camera! Most pixels are thrown away before you see them, but camera makers don't want you to know that.
If you're not getting sharp pictures with this, be sure to use an internally stabilized camera or a tripod, or at least shoot at or above 1/500 if hand-held. Don't shoot at f/16 or smaller where all lenses are softer due to diffraction, always shoot at ISO 100 or below because cameras become softer at ISO 200 and above, avoid shooting across long distances over land which can lead to atmospheric heat shimmer, be sure everything is in perfect focus, set your camera's sharpening as you want it (I set mine to the maximum) and be sure nothing is moving, either camera or subject. If you want to ensure a soft image with any lens, shoot at f/16 or smaller at ISO 1,600 or above at default sharpening in daylight of subjects at differing distances in the same image.
Canon's MTF wide-open at 10 cyc/mm (black) and 30 cyc/mm (blue). Sagittal (radial) shown as solid lines, meridional (tangential) shown as dashed lines.
Compared to other Canon lenses, this lens can be a bit softer wide-open, which is where you'll most likely be shooting unless you're using a tripod.
While it's usually valid to compare rated MTFs between different lenses of similar vintage from the same maker, every maker measures or simply calculates MTF very differently, and therefore one cannot compare these curves between brands. For instance, Sony seems to ignore diffraction and simply calculate overly optimistic MTFs that hug 100%, which no real lens can do at f/8, while other brands are more realistic and include diffraction. Only Canon offers any insight on how they arrive at their curves.
See also my article on MTF and Canon's article on MTFs.
Spherochromatism performance top
Spherochromatism, also called secondary spherical chromatic aberration or "color bokeh," is an advanced form of spherical and chromatic aberration in a different dimension than lateral chromatic aberration and therefore cannot be corrected with software or automatic corrections. It happens mostly in fast normal and tele lenses when spherical aberration at the ends of the color spectrum are corrected differently than in the middle of the spectrum. Spherochromatism can cause colored fringes on out-of-focus highlights, usually seen as green fringes on backgrounds and magenta fringes on foregrounds. Spherochromatism is common in fast lenses of moderate focal length when shooting contrasty items at full aperture. It goes away as stopped down.
It has a modestly strong amount of spherochromatism, with yellow-green fringes behind and violet fringes ahead of the plane of perfect focus. Spherochromatism, like in many other older and inexpensive telephoto designs, is this lens' biggest optical limitation.
Mondaine A132.30348.11SBB at close-focus distance, 24 September 2025. Canon EOS R1, RF 75-300mm at 300mm at f/5.6 at 1/1,000 at Auto ISO 100, +0.7 stops exposure compensation (LV 15.0). bigger or camera-original © file.
1,200 × 900 pixel (5× magnification) crop from above. bigger or camera-original © file.
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 3" (7.5cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same large magnification would be about 10 × 15" (25 × 38cm).
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 6" (15cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same high magnification would be about 20 × 30" (50 × 75cm).
If this 1,200 × 900 pixel crop is about 12" (30cm) wide on your screen, then the complete image printed at this same extreme magnification would be about 40 × 60" (1 × 1.5 meters).
Image Stabilization performance top
This lens has NO Optical Image Stabilization (OIS, IS or VR (Vibration Reduction)), and works great with in-camera stabilization if you have it.
With an unstabilized camera you'll need very high shutter speeds for sharp shots handheld. If you're shooting sports or action you may get away with it, but for landscapes and subjects who hold still you'll want to use a tripod — or use a stabilized lens like the RF 100-400mm or a stabilized camera instead.
"Percent Perfectly Sharp Shots" are the percentage of hand-held, free-standing with no support or bracing, frames with 100% perfect tripod-equivalent sharpness as viewed at 300%. Hand tremor is a random occurrence, so at marginal speeds some frames will be perfectly sharp while others will be in various stages of blur — all at the same shutter speed.
This rates what percentage of shots are perfectly sharp, not how sharp are all the frames:
% Perfectly Sharp Shots with stabilized EOS R1 |
2s |
1s |
1/2 |
1/4 |
1/8 |
1/15 |
1/30 |
1/60 |
1/125 |
1/250 |
| Stabilization ON | 0 |
20 |
0 |
70 |
70 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
| Stabilization OFF | 0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
10 |
70 |
100 |
I see a 5 stop real-world improvement.
| % Perfectly Sharp Shots with stabilized EOS R1 | 1/2 |
1/4 |
1/8 |
1/15 |
1/30 |
1/60 |
1/125 |
1/250 |
1/500 |
1/1,000 |
| Stabilization ON | 0 |
0 |
15 |
50 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
| Stabilization OFF | 0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
20 |
60 |
90 |
100 |
I see a 4 stop real-world improvement.
% Perfectly Sharp Shots with stabilized EOS R1 |
1/2 |
1/4 |
1/8 |
1/15 |
1/30 |
1/60 |
1/125 |
1/250 |
1/500 |
1/1,000 |
| Stabilization ON | 0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
5 |
10 |
47 |
100 |
100 |
100 |
| Stabilization OFF | 0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
0 |
5 |
27½ |
82 |
100 |
I see a 1½ stop real-world improvement.
Sunstars performance top
With a 7-bladed rounded diaphragm, I get very good 14-point sunstars on brilliant points of light, but only at the smallest apertures where it's not likely to be helpful.
Click any to enlarge:
Click any to enlarge.
Teleconverters performance top
It will not work with any teleconverters.
There isn't enough room in the back of the lens to accommodate the protuberances from either of the Canon RF 1.4× or Canon RF 2× extenders.
Weather Sealing performance top
This lens claims no weather sealing. Neither does any LEICA M lens, nor did anything other than dedicated underwater cameras claim this up until a few years ago. "Weather sealing" is mostly a marketing feature to get you to pay more for more expensive lenses.
People have worried way too much about this ever since camera companies started FUD campaigns to make us think that our gear will dissolve unless it has weather sealing. How do you think we shot in the rain for the first 190 years of photography?
Recommendations top
Introduction New Good Bad Missing
I got mine at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon, at B&H, or get it used if you know How to Win at eBay, or get it used at KEH.
This is a great little lens — if you have a stabilized camera. Without in-body stabilization, you'll need a tripod or very fast shutter speeds to get pictures that aren't blurry.
I love it for travel and anyplace I have to carry it. No, it's not always as sharp as my lenses that weigh so much that I don't want to carry them or cost ten times as much, and I'm always glad I have it with me.
This lens is like riding a pink moped: it's fun to ride, but you don't want your friends seeing you with it. It makes great pictures if you know what you're doing.
I use a clear (UV) protective filter instead of a cap (exactly like an iPhone) so I'm always ready to shoot instantly. I only use a cap when I throw this in a bag with other gear without padding — which is never. The UV filter never gets in the way, and never gets lost, either.
The very best protective filter is the Hoya multicoated HD3 58mm UV which uses hardened glass and repels dirt and fingerprints.
The inexpensive Hoya multicoated 58mm UV works as well but doesn't stay as clean, and for very basic use in filthy environments the uncoated Tiffen 58mm UV works almost as well and is much easier to clean.
For a very low cost filter suited to the price of this lens, also consider the uncoated (plain glass) Chiaro 58mm 90-UVAT filter for five bucks, the multicoated K&F UV filter for seven dollars, or the multicoated Chiaro 58mm 95-UVAT for $8.50.
Filters last a lifetime, so you may as well get the best. The Hoya HD3 stays cleaner than the others since it repels oil and dirt.
All these filters are just as sharp and take the same pictures, the difference is how much abuse they'll take and stay clean and stay in one piece. Since filters last a lifetime or more, there's no reason not to buy the best as it will last you for the next 50 years. Filters aren't throwaways like digital cameras which we replace every few years, like it or not. I'm still using filters I bought back in the 1970s!
I got mine at B&H. I'd also get it at Adorama, at Amazon, at B&H, or get it used if you know How to Win at eBay, or get it used at KEH.
This 100% all-content, junk-free website's biggest source of support is when you use those or any of these links to my personally approved sources I've used myself for way over 100 combined years when you get anything, regardless of the country in which you live. Canon does not seal its boxes in any way, so never buy at retail or any other source not on my personally approved list since you'll have no way of knowing if you're missing accessories, getting a defective, damaged, returned, non-USA, store demo or used lens — and all of my personally approved sources allow for 100% cash-back returns for at least 30 days if you don't love your new lens. I've used many of these sources since the 1970s because I can try it in my own hands and return it if I don't love it, and because they ship from secure remote warehouses where no one gets to touch your new lens before you do. Buy only from the approved sources I've used myself for decades for the best prices, service, return policies and selection.
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Ken.